10 Steps to Finding Your First Rental

Apt. for rent

When you’re looking for an apartment for the first time, it can be overwhelming. The best way not to panic is to break the process down into 10 sequential steps. The timeline will mostly depend on how long it will take you to save the upfront cash you’ll need, but after the money is in the bank, you should be in your own place in no time.

Determine your price range

There are two common ways to do this: You can divide your monthly take-home income by three. (For example, if you take home $1,800 a month after taxes, you could afford a place that costs up to $600 per month.) Or divide your annual gross income (before taxes and other deductions) by 40. (For example, if you made $40,000 a year, you could afford a place that cost up to $1,000 per month.) Either way gives you a rough idea of your maximum budget.

Start saving

Before long, you’ll need to put down a security deposit (usually equal to one month’s rent), plus the first month’s rent. And that doesn’t even include application fees and credit-check fees you may be charged. So start saving now, particularly because moving itself can cost anywhere from $200-$2,000, depending on the distance of the move and how much you do yourself.

Check your credit

Management companies will be checking your credit once you start applying. You don’t want to be caught flat-footed, so check if there are any blemishes on your report at the free Annual Credit Report website, which is sponsored by the federal government. If you have great credit, you have nothing to worry about. If your credit has blemishes, you may need to ask a friend, parent or relative if they would be willing to serve as your co-signer on a lease. In any case, be ready to explain your low score to potential landlords and what you are doing to fix it.

Settle on a neighborhood

Whether you’re moving crosstown or across the country, the best way to decide on a neighborhood is to visit. Also, ask friends who already live in the neighborhood what they think. Another thing to consider is affordability — we’d all love to live in SoHo, but most of us can’t afford it. In other words, be realistic. To determine the cost of a neighborhood, go online to see what an average 1- or 2-bedroom runs. A good rule of thumb is that at least a third of the listings in your neighborhood of choice should be within your budget. If it’s any fewer than that, you’re going to have limited options.

Start looking

Find listings online, but also remember to network among friends and colleagues, respond to “For Rent” signs you see in-person and cold-call management companies that have appealing buildings. If the rental market in your chosen city is really tight, you may need to use a broker. That will typically cost one month’s rent, so to move in you’ll need to have three months of rent in cash. Ouch! Also, be wary of red flags. If you know a particular landlord or management company is involved in poor practices, don’t even bother looking at their places.

Another word of advice: If something seems too good to be true, it probably is. When dealing with a potential landlord, the conversation should be respectful and straightforward. And remember to always Google the address of the building as a final precaution.

Put in an application

Once you find a great place, don’t get cold feet. If it’s within your budget, in a neighborhood you love and with a solid management company, then apply. If your credit score is good — or you have a co-signer lined up — you’re likely to get it!

Sign the lease

Your lease is a contract, so make sure you understand it. Often, if you have issues with certain points on the lease, you can alter or discuss them with the management company before signing. So read the lease carefully. A few things to look out for: the penalty for breaking the lease early, the policy for fixing issues with the apartment, how much notice you must give if you want to renew and the rules for getting your security deposit back.

Transfer/set up your utilities

Call the utility companies at least a week in advance, so you have a buffer in case you need to schedule an appointment. Other things to think about: You should get renter’s insurance before you move in, and you should also change your address with the USPS. Depending on where you’re moving, you may also need to register for parking stickers, change your driver’s license (if you’re changing states) and get a local library card.

Conduct a walk-through

During the walk-through, you need to document any pre-existing problems you find with the apartment, so that you’re not held liable. This means testing everything from the burners on the stove to the quality of the carpet to the functioning of the refrigerator. If anything’s off, document it. If the landlord needs to fix something, get it in writing. This is the best way to protect yourself, your future home and your security deposit.

Make the move

If you’re moving long distance, schedule movers several weeks in advance (prime dates book up quickly). If you’re finally moving out from your parent’s basement, they’ll probably help you pack up the station wagon and drive you! In any case, start packing early: It takes longer than you think, and if you’re not totally packed when the movers arrive, you’re courting disaster. Also, label your boxes and make sure you have staples such as toilet paper, light bulbs and cleaning supplies at the ready. You’ll need them right away when you move in.

This may all seem like a lot, but if you break it down step by step, finding and moving to a new apartment becomes very manageable. And nothing beats that great feeling you’ll have when you first walk into own apartment.

Find Rentals on The Peral Group

What is Debt-To-Income Ratio?

What is DTI Ratio?

By  on January 23, 2013

Debt-to-income ratio (DTI) is one of the key factors mortgage lenders use to determine whether or not a potential borrower can afford a mortgage. The debt-to-income ratio is calculated by dividing total monthly debt payments by total monthly income. Monthly debt payments generally include expenses such as mortgage payments, auto payments, student loan payments, credit card payments, and child support payments. Monthly expenses such as utilities, auto insurance and phone services are not included towards the monthly debt calculation. Monthly gross income generally includes the borrower’s monthly income, his/her spouse’s monthly income, any savings income, and any business or side incomes.

To learn how to calculate DTI, let’s consider the following example:

Monthly Mortgage Payment: $1200
Monthly Auto Payment: $500
Credit card payment (minimum): $300
Total Monthly Debt Payment = $(1500+500+500) = $2000

Suppose the monthly incomes are as below:

Borrower’s Monthly Salary: $3500
Spouse’s Monthly Salary: $2500
Other Income: $500
Total Monthly Income= $(6000+2500+500) = $6500

Debt-to-Income Ratio = Total Monthly Debt Payment/Total Monthly Income = (2000/6500) = 30.76%

When underwriting a mortgage, a lender will typically consider two kinds of debt-to-income ratios. First is the front ratio, which includes all housing costs (i.e. mortgage principal, interest, mortgage insurance premiums, and property taxes). The second is the back ratio, which includes non-mortgage debt such as credit card payments, auto loan payments, child support payments, and student loan payments.

As a general rule of thumb:

  • Front ratio = Housing DTI: Total Monthly Housing Payment / Gross Monthly Income Before Taxes
  • Back ratio = Total DTI: Total Housing Payment + Other Debts / Gross Monthly Income Before Taxes

The maximum allowable DTI to qualify for a loan is going to depend upon your lender, your financial situation, and your loan program.  Underwriting standards may vary from lender to lender, so you will want to contact your lender of choice to find out how it calculates DTI for a given loan program.

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Improve salability of home riddled with permit issues

REThink Real Estate

BY TARA-NICHOLLE NELSON, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=43156006" target="_blank">Kitchen remodel</a> image via Shutterstock.
Kitchen remodel image via Shutterstock.

Q: I’m having trouble selling my place because I added a second kitchen in what was the garage without permits. My bad, but I will have to take it out to get conventional lending. It’s a two-story house with one bedroom (with a walk-in closet), a living room and kitchen in the upstairs unit. The downstairs has a kitchen and dining area in the converted garage space, another room that can be used as a bedroom with closet space under the stairwell, and a three-quarter bath.

This is on one acre of horse property on a dirt road with a section of state land across the street. It was listed last summer and had four offers within a month, but because I didn’t have the permits for the second kitchen no lender will finance the place.

Here’s my question: Should I spend the money to install a real closet in the downstairs bedroom, or just leave it as it is? –Jan

A: It sounds like the big selling point of your place is its fundamentals, the land, the horse zoning and the location near the undeveloped/state land. But as you’ve been through this odyssey with trying to get this place sold, I can tell that you are in danger of getting off track and unfocused with respect to how you move forward. Here’s how I’d suggest you avoid that:

1. Solve for the real problem. Stay focused on solving for the real problem that stopped you from selling the place the first go-round. If you had four offers right off the bat when you listed it, I would say that adding a closet is really not going to increase your chances of selling the place this go-round. Stay strategic and devote your additional investment and preparation efforts to what really matters: rendering the place mortgage-worthy and salable by either removing the second kitchen or obtaining permits for it.

That said, if you happen to know that the downstairs kitchen was a big selling point for the buyers who made offers before and you decide to remove it before relisting the place, then I’d say you can put the closet conversation back on the table. It might, in fact, limit how some buyers might like to use that living space, but I’d first talk with your agent and get her sense for whether the earlier buyer feedback suggests that a closet would be greatly valuable in that room to the average buyer for your property. I just doubt that a closet will be a major deal maker or breaker on a property that already had such a high level of buyer interest without the closet.

2. Don’t make the same mistake twice. To carve out an exception to my earlier advice, if installing a closet gets you an additional, legal bedroom, then you should consider doing it. That would allow you to list the home as a two-bedroom vs. a one-bedroom — and that does have major, incremental buyer-attracting value. But for that to happen, you’d have to apply for permits to turn the space into a bedroom with a closet. The fact that it is under a stairwell makes me suspect that it might not qualify for bedroom status, but talk that over with your agent and a local, licensed contractor.

And be aware that if you do apply for permits to turn the open space into a bedroom, you could be opening up a can of worms by inviting inspectors into the property who may begin to require other upgrades of the property to current building code standards. Given that you’ve heavily modified the home already without permits, this could be a train you’ll wish desperately you could put back in the station — and might not be worth the risk, even if you do think you could get an extra legal bedroom out of a closet addition.

3. Don’t assume removing the kitchen is the only solution. Allow me to add one more layer of complexity to this decision tree you face. Is it possible that you can get permits for the downstairs kitchen? Talk with your agent. If she feels like the property will get just as much buyer interest and just as many offers if you just pull the kitchen out, because of the nature of the place, then I’d say you should do that.

But if the downstairs “unit” was a primary reason buyers were interested last time, talk with your agent and contractor about whether it’s possible to cost-effectively get the kitchen permitted. If so, consider going that route, but do keep in mind the reality that applying for permits on the kitchen might expose you to additional inspector demands, like upgrades to electrical and other systems. So make sure you have a trusted, legitimate contractor on board who can tell you in advance what such demands would likely be.

Tara-Nicholle Nelson is a real estate broker, attorney and the author of two critically acclaimed books on real estate. Tara also speaks and writes on the art and science of life transformation at RETHINK7.com.

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Common surprises in real estate negotiation

When contingencies are involved, expect the unexpected

BY DIAN HYMER, MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=22697938" target="_blank">Underwater minefield</a> image via Shutterstock.Purchase offers usually aren’t accepted as written. Commonly, buyers and sellers engage in the equivalent of a tennis match, counter offering back and forth until they meet a mutually agreeable purchase contract. At this point, you might be inclined to think the negotiation phase of the transaction is over.

That may have been the case decades ago. But the home sale process has become more complicated over the years. Today, it might be more appropriate to say that the negotiations are over when the transaction closes. That is, if there aren’t any after-closing issues, like a leaky roof that wasn’t disclosed that could require more negotiation.

After a purchase contract is signed — including all the addenda and counteroffers — it is said to be ratified. A ratified contract is binding on both parties and usually can’t be unilaterally changed by one party without agreement from the other party. Any modification to a ratified purchase contract needs to be in writing. Verbal agreements to sell real estate are not binding.

Most purchase contracts include contingencies that provide buyers a time period to comply with certain parts of the transaction. The most common contingencies are for inspections and investigations, loan approval, appraisal of the property, and the sale of another property.

Usually, if the buyers use their best efforts to satisfy these contingencies but are unable to do so, they can withdraw from the contract without penalty and have their good faith deposit returned to them.

You should fully understand any purchase offer you sign as well as the impact of the buyers removing or not removing contingencies before you sign the contract. Not all contingencies contain the same language.

For example, some inspection contingencies give the sellers the right to remedy a defect; others allow the buyers to withdraw from the contract for any reason at the end of the inspection contingency period. Any questions should be directed to a real estate attorney.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Even though the ratified contract is legally binding on both the buyer and seller, circumstances can change during the transaction that may result in renegotiation. The most common occurs when the buyers’ inspection contingency is due. If buyers’ inspections reveal new information about the property, the buyers may agree to remove the inspection contingency but only if the sellers repair defects or contribute financially to repairs.

This puts the contract in limbo and requires good faith negotiation to salvage the transaction. Otherwise, the buyers and sellers agree in writing to cancel the contract. The sellers put their home back on the market and the buyers look for another home to buy.

Not all buyers renegotiate the contract when the inspection contingency is due. If the sellers have provided presale inspection reports and thorough disclosures before the buyers made an offer, it’s less likely that the buyers will make further requests from the sellers.

Another trigger for further negotiations can occur when an appraisal ordered by the buyers’ lender values the property at a price that’s lower than the purchase contract price. The effect of this is that the buyers’ lender will lend less than it said it would before the appraisal was done.

The buyers could ask for another appraisal, withdraw from the contract or try to negotiate a solution with the sellers. This might mean that the buyers agree to put more cash down, or they could ask the sellers to lower the purchase price, or a combination of the two. The goal is to reach a price that will work with the lower loan amount.

Buyers who feel they overpaid for the property may be more inclined to request a reduction to the appraised value and hold firm at that price.

THE CLOSING: If the sellers won’t agree, the transaction will fail.

Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years’ experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author of “House Hunting: The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers” and “Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer’s Guide.”

 

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Eight ways to improve your home appraisal

  • By Lou Carlozo

WASHINGTON (Reuters) – When Kellie and Michael May decided to refinance their home in the New York suburbs, they wanted to take advantage of historically low interest rates. But before landing a new 30-year fixed-rate mortgage, they had to get through a home appraisal.

“It was a major stumbling block,” says Kellie May, who has owned the 4-bedroom, 3-bath colonial for seven years. Not that she and her husband were unprepared; they’d been through an appraisal for another refinance in 2010, so they knew to point out improvements they’d made to the 3,400 square foot home, and supply prices for other neighborhood properties that had sold recently.

But the appraisal came back roughly $70,000 less than the $1,230,000 the Mays were expecting, and too low to support their new loan.

They responded with a paperwork arsenal aimed at their lender, asserting that the appraisal had been based on faulty recent sales data. The loan squeaked through, after the bank crafted an exception for the Mays. It was able to do that because their loan was a jumbo loan, not subject to the more rigid underwriting standards they would have encountered if it were a conventional loan aimed at secondary buyers like Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac.

Low appraisals are becoming a bigger problem for many would-be buyers and refinancers as home values have started to stabilize and rise in some markets.

In Leesburg, Florida, for example, low appraisals have caused the cancellation of as many as 15 percent of home sales for local real estate broker Gus Grizzard.

“We are seeing higher price appreciation and are starting to run into appraisal problems,” said Charlie Young, chief executive officer of ERA Franchise Systems, a firm with a national network of real estate brokerage offices, including Grizzard’s. The National Association of Realtors reported on Tuesday that inventories of homes were low and the median price a home resale was, at $180,800 in December, up 11.5 percent in a year.

Appraisals are based on recent sales prices of comparable properties. And in rising price markets, those sales prices might not be high enough to support the newest deals. Young said there were many places in California reporting appraisal problems.

On Friday, the federal government issued new rules aimed at improving the appraisal process as it pertains to high-interest mortgages on rapidly appreciating homes.

But those rules don’t go into effect for a year, and don’t apply to most conventional loans. It pays to protect your own loan before the bank even thinks about sending that guy with the clipboard over to your house.

“The reality is that the appraiser is only there for 30 minutes at most,” says Brian Coester, chief executive of CoesterVMS, a nationwide appraisal management company based in Rockville, Maryland. “The best thing a homeowner can do to get the highest appraisal possible is make sure they have all the important features of the home readily available for the appraiser.”

Here are eight ways you can bolster your appraisal:

MAKE SURE APPRAISER KNOWS YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD

Is the appraiser from within a 10-mile radius of your property? “This is one of the first questions you should ask the appraiser,” says Ben Salem, a real estate agent with Rodeo Realty in Beverly Hills, California.

He recalled a recent case where an appraiser visited an unfamiliar property in nearby Orange County and produced an appraisal that Salem said was $150,000 off. “If the appraiser doesn’t know the area intimately, chances are the appraisal will not come back close to what a property is really worth.”

You can request that your lender send a local appraiser; if that still doesn’t happen, supply as much information as you can about the quality of your neighborhood.

PROVIDE YOUR OWN COMPARABLES

Provide your appraiser with at least three solid and well-priced comparable properties. You will save her some work, and insure that she is getting price information from homes that really are similar to yours.

Websites including Realtor.com, Zillow and Trulia offer recent sales prices and details such as the number of bedrooms and bathrooms in a home.

KNOW WHAT ADDS THE MOST VALUE

If you’re going to do minor renovations, start with your kitchen and bathrooms, says G. Stacy Sirmans, a professor of real estate at Florida State University. He reviewed 150 variables that affect home values for a study sponsored by the National Association of Realtors. Wood floors, landscaping and an enclosed garage can also drive up appraisals.

DOCUMENT YOUR FIX-UPS

If you’ve put money into the house, prove it, says Salem.

“Before-and-after photos, along with a well-defined spreadsheet of what was spent on each renovation, should persuade an appraiser to turn in a number that far exceeds what he or she first called out.”

Don’t forget to highlight all-important structural improvements to electrical systems, heating and cooling systems – which are harder to see, but can dramatically boost an appraisal. Show receipts.

TALK UP YOUR TOWN

If your town has recently seen exciting developments, such as upscale restaurants, museums, parks or other amenities, make sure your appraiser knows about them, says Craig Silverman, principal and chief appraiser at Silverman & Co. in Newtown, Pennsylvania.

DISTINGUISH BETWEEN UPSTAIRS AND DOWNSTAIRS

Many homeowners covet that refinished basement, but that doesn’t mean appraisers look at it the same way. “Improvements and additions made below grade, such as a finished basement, do not add to the overall square footage of your house,” says John Walsh, president of Total Mortgage Services in New York. “So they don’t add anywhere near as much value as improvements made above grade.”

According to Remodeling magazine, a basement renovation that cost $63,000 in 2011-12 will recoup roughly 66 percent of that in added home value. That’s not as good as an attic bedroom, which will recoup 73 percent of its cost. Even similar bedrooms typically count for more if they are upstairs instead of downstairs.

CLEAN UP

Even jaded appraisers can be swayed by a good looking yard. “Tree trimming, cleaning up, a few flowers in the flower beds and paint touch up can all help the appraisal,” says Agnes Huff, a real estate investor based in Los Angeles.

That advice holds true indoors, too. “Get rid of all the clutter in your home,” says Jonathan Miller, a longtime appraiser in New York. “It makes the home appear larger.”

GIVE THE APPRAISER SOME SPACE

Don’t follow the appraiser around like a puppy. “I can’t tell you how many homeowners or listing agents follow me around in my personal space during the inspection,” he says. “It’s a major red flag there is a problem with the home.”

And while you’re at it, make the appraiser’s job as pleasant as possible by giving your home a pleasant smell. At a minimum, clean out the litter box. Baking some fresh cookies and offering him one or two probably won’t sway your appraisal, nor should it. But it couldn’t hurt.

(The writer is a Reuters contributor. The opinions expressed are his own.)

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

4 reasons your home isn’t selling

Even in recovering markets, listings must be priced right and properly marketed

BY DIAN HYMER, MONDAY, JANUARY 21, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=32385181" target="_blank">Price reduced</a> image via Shutterstock.
Price reduced image via Shutterstock.

There’s a buzz in the air. The real estate market has improved and may be on the road to recovery.

But the improvement in the housing market is not treating all home sellers equally. Some well-priced listings in prime locations are selling within a couple of weeks. In other areas, it still takes months to sell, and prices haven’t fully stabilized.

There are several factors that could be keeping your home from selling. One is the state of the local housing market. Residential real estate is a local business. National trends, while informative, don’t necessarily apply to the state of the market in your neighborhood.

Other factors include: the list price; the condition of your property; or lack of broad marketing exposure.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Today’s buyers don’t overpay. They need to be convinced that the price you’re asking for your home is a fair market value.

The housing market is pulling out of the worst recession since the Great Depression. This is fresh in buyers’ minds. There are plenty of buyers who think this is the right time to buy, but they’re not inclined to make offers on overpriced listings.

Sellers often wonder why buyers won’t make an offer at a lower price if they think the list price is high. Buyers don’t want to waste their time making an offer if the seller is unrealistic. Making an offer takes a lot of time and emotional energy. Most buyers who have the wherewithal to buy a home don’t have time to waste.

There are “bottom feeders” who give sellers lowball offers below market value hoping to get lucky. These buyers also won’t pay over the asking price. They want a bargain. You can do better than that if you price your home right for the market.

Here are clues that your listing might be priced too high. You don’t receive any showings, or you receive showings but no repeat showings. Buyers usually look at a listing more than once before making an offer. Another possibility is that buyers look at your home and then buy another listing that is priced more in line with the market.

Let your real estate agent know that you want to hear feedback from buyers who have seen your home. If they like the house but not at the price you’re asking, that’s a clear indication that you should adjust the price if you want to sell.

Some sellers have false expectations about the current picked-up market. In some areas, the improved market means that homes are taking less time to sell, not that prices have increased.

In other markets, like Phoenix, prices have jumped approximately 25 percent from a year ago but are still way below where they were at the peak of the market. If prices dropped 50 percent in your area, they need to increase 100 percent to get back to where they were before the decline.

For instance, if your home was worth $100,000 in 2006 and dropped 50 percent in value and then increased 50 percent of the lower value, it would be worth $75,000. It needs to increase 100 percent ($50,000 plus $50,000) to recoup your loss.

The condition of your home will influence the market value. You need to lower the price to account for deferred maintenance or a dated decor, or take care of these issues so that you can present your home in move-in condition. You’ll then attract more buyers and sell for more.

It’s always possible that your home has not been properly marketed. Ask your listing agent to provide you with copies of all advertising. More than 88 percent of today’s homebuyers use the Internet to find a home.

THE CLOSING: Make sure your listing is receiving wide Internet exposure, including a lot of good-quality photographs.

Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years’ experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author of “House Hunting: The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers” and “Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer’s Guide.”

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

First impressions are made at the front door

Home’s entrance is seldom high on remodeling priorities

BY ARROL GELLNER, FRIDAY, JANUARY 11, 2013.

Inman News®

Front door of a <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=75275389" target="_blank">Georgian era townhouse</a> in Salisbury, England image via Shutterstock.Front door of a Georgian era townhouse in Salisbury, England image via Shutterstock.

Have you ever been to a house where you had to skirt the gas meter or sidle around garbage cans to get to the front door? Or one where there was such a bewildering array of doors, you weren’t sure which one to knock at?

The front entrance is seldom high on people’s remodeling priorities. Yet, just like that old saw about first impressions, it’s your home’s entrance that people notice first. It’s practically impossible to rectify a bad impression made at the front door.

Tract-home builders have known this for years; even in the cheapest house, they’ll never cut corners on the front door. They know that a strong impression of quality here subtly colors a visitor’s perception of the whole house.

For much of architectural history, front entrances have been a focal point of a home’s design. In colonial New England, for example, the front door was often flanked by sidelights and topped by a pediment, setting it apart from an otherwise austere facade.

The entrance should also be clearly apparent from the street. That doesn’t mean it has to be glaringly exposed to view — just that its location should be easily deduced by an unfamiliar passerby. Architects call this principle “demarcation.”

There are lots of subtle ways to demarcate a front entrance. The most common is to surround the door with an architectural form such as a pediment or other type of trim. Another traditional strategy places the door in a recess, on a projection, or under a roofed porch. You can find a well-known example of the latter on the back of a $20 bill.

Here are some thoughts for planning your own grand entrance:

  • Don’t place an unsheltered entrance door flush with the front wall of the house; it’ll create an unwelcoming “side door” or trailer-door effect.
  • Don’t bring the path to the front door past utilities such as gas or electric meters, or past unsightly storage areas for trash or the like. Keep these kinds of features out of the visitor’s line of sight.
  • Don’t force visitors to walk on a driveway to get to your front door. Provide a separate walking path, or at least set aside a portion of the driveway paving using a different color or texture so it’s clearly meant just for those on foot.
  • If you plan to provide a covered entrance porch, make it at least 6 feet wide — enough for a person to stretch out both arms without touching either wall. Anything less will feel cramped and uncomfortable. Also, make the porch at least 4 feet deep (6 feet is better), or it’ll feel cramped when more than one person is waiting outside the front door. A cheaper alternative to building a projecting porch is simply to recess the front door. Again, make the recess at least 6 feet wide, and not less than 2 feet deep.
  • Lastly, if your house has several doors facing the street, make sure your front approach aims your visitors toward the main entrance. Your front door may seem obvious to you, but, hey, you live there.

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Consumer watchdog tightens mortgage lending rules on banks

In

Elise Amendola / AP

In this Thursday, Dec. 20, 2012, photo, a sign hangs in North Andover, Mass. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau will force banks to verify a borrower’s ability to repay loans to ward off the kind of loose lending that helped push the U.S. economy into recession.

More than five years after the housing market collapsed, the U.S. government’s newly created consumer watchdog said Thursday it will force banks to verify a borrower’s ability to repay loans to ward off the kind of loose lending that helped push the U.S. economy into recession.

The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau said its new guidelines would also protect borrowers from irresponsible mortgage lending by providing some legal shields for lenders who issue safer, lower-priced loan products.

Lenders and consumer groups have anxiously awaited the new rules, which are among the most controversial the government watchdog is required to issue by the 2010 Dodd-Frank financial reform law.

“When consumers sit down at the closing table, they shouldn’t be set up to fail with mortgages they can’t afford,” Richard Cordray, the bureau’s director, said in a statement.

The new rules are intended to combat lending abuses that contributed to the U.S. housing bubble, when shoddy mortgage standards led American households to take on billions of dollars in debt they could not afford.

The U.S. economy is still feeling the after-effects of the bubble, which sparked a global credit crisis after it burst in 2006. As the housing market imploded, banks sharply tightened the screws on lending.

Regulators said the new rules would head off future crises by preventing irresponsible lending, without forcing banks to restrict credit further. Lenders will have to verify a potential borrower’s income, the amount of debt they have and their job status before issuing a mortgage.

And because lenders are likely to want the heightened legal protection that comes with offering certain “plain vanilla” loans, the rules could go a long way in determining who gets a loan and who can access low-cost borrowing rates.

Safe harbor for lenders
Dodd-Frank directed regulators to designate a category of “qualified mortgages” that would automatically be considered compliant with the ability-to-repay requirement. The rule was first set in motion by the Federal Reserve and then handed off to the consumer bureau in July 2011.

The consumer protection bureau said on Thursday that it would define “qualified mortgages” as those that have no risky loan features – such as interest-only payments or balloon payments – and with fees that add up to no more than 3 percent of the loan amount.

In addition, these loans must go to borrowers whose debt does not exceed 43 percent of their income.

These loans would carry extra legal protection for lenders under a two-tiered system that appears to create a compromise between the housing industry and consumer advocates.

Bank groups had lobbied the bureau to extend a full “safe harbor” to all qualified loans, preventing consumers from claiming in lawsuits that they did not have the ability to repay them. But consumer advocates wanted a lower form of protection that would allow borrowers greater latitude to sue.

Under the rules announced on Thursday, the highest level of protection would go to lower-priced qualified mortgages. Such prime loans generally will go to less-risky consumers with sound credit histories, the bureau said.

Higher priced loans would receive less protection. Lenders would be presumed to have verified the ability to repay the loan, but borrowers could sue if they could show that they did not have sufficient income to pay the mortgage and cover other living expenses.

Credit availability
Some lawmakers and mortgage lenders had warned against a draconian rule that could exacerbate the current credit crunch and set back a housing market that has become a bright spot in an otherwise tepid economic recovery.

Consumer bureau officials said they were sensitive to concerns about credit tightening, and they baked into the rules several provisions meant to keep credit flowing and to smooth the transition to the new regime.

The new rules establish an additional category of loans that would be temporarily treated as qualified. These mortgages could exceed the 43 percent debt-to-income ratio as long as they met the underwriting standards required by Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac or other U.S. government housing agencies.

The provision would phase out in seven years, or sooner if housing agencies issue their own qualified mortgage rules or if the government ends its support of Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, the two housing finance giants it rescued in 2008.

Regulators also proposed creating a qualified mortgage category that would apply to community banks and credit unions.

Banks will have until January 2014 to comply with the new rules, the consumer bureau said.

 

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Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Fannie, Freddie short sales hit record high

REO inventories down 36 percent from 2010 peak

BY INMAN NEWS, MONDAY, JANUARY 7, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=50051371" target="_blank">Short sale sign</a> image via Shutterstock.
Short sale sign image via Shutterstock.

Loan servicers working on behalf of Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac signed off on a record number of short sales in the third quarter of 2012, according to a report from the mortgage giants’ regulator, the Federal Housing Finance Agency (FHFA).

Short sales and deeds-in-lieu of foreclosure totaled 37,966 for the three months ending Sept. 30, 2012, up 4 percent from the previous quarter and 23 percent from a year ago. Fannie and Freddie implemented accelerated timelines in June 2012 for reviewing and approving short-sale transactions.

Fannie and Freddie short sales and deeds-in-lieu


Right-click graph to enlarge. Source: Federal Housing Finance Agency.

The mortgage giants’ inventories of “real estate owned” (REO) homes also continued to decline, as Fannie and Freddie got rid of homes faster than they acquired them through foreclosures.

During the first nine months of the year, Fannie and Freddie acquired 197,507 homes through foreclosure, and sold 218,321 REOs and foreclosed homes.

Fannie and Freddie REO inventories (thousands of homes)


Right-click graph to enlarge. Source: Federal Housing Finance Agency.

All told, Fannie and Freddie had 158,138 homes in their REO inventories as of Sept. 30, 2012, down 13 percent from a year ago and a drop of nearly 36 percent from a Sept. 30, 2010, peak of 241,684.

Fannie and Freddie were placed under government control, or conservatorship, in September 2008. Since then, loan servicers working on their behalf have approved 2.1 million home retention actions, including 1.26 million permanent loan modifications.

During the same period, Fannie and Freddie acquired more than 1.1 million homes through foreclosure, and signed off on 413,436 short sales and deeds-in-lieu of foreclosure.

There have been about 4 million completed foreclosures nationwide since September 2008, according to data aggregator CoreLogic.

Of the 62,561 loan modifications completed in the third quarter, about 45 percent of borrowers saw their monthly payments decrease by more than 30 percent. More than a third of loan mods included principal forbearance. Less than 15 percent of loans modified in fourth-quarter 2011 had missed two or more payments as of Sept. 30, 2012, nine months after modification, the report said.

Since the beginning of the Obama administration’s Home Affordable Modification Program (HAMP) in April 2009, just over 1 million borrowers have been offered a trial loan modification, and more than half had been granted a permanent modification. Of those, 21.2 percent had defaulted as of the third quarter. The vast majority of the remainder, 428,946 borrowers, were in active permanent modifications as of the third quarter.

Since October 2009, Fannie and Freddie have offered 564,822 non-HAMP permanent loan modifications. Non-HAMP modifications made up two-thirds of all permanent loan mods in the third quarter, the report said.

The share of mortgage loans 30-59 days delinquent rose slightly to 2.08 percent of all loans serviced in the third quarter, but the share of seriously delinquent loans fell slightly to 3.39 percent. Seriously delinquent loans are those that are 90 days or more delinquent or in the process of foreclosure. More than half of seriously delinquent borrowers had missed more than a year of mortgage payments as of the end of the third quarter, the report said.

Nearly 3 in 10 of these deeply delinquent borrowers are located in Florida.

 

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10 Banks Agree to Pay $8.5B for Foreclosure Abuse

By Associated PressJan. 07, 2013
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(WASHINGTON) — Ten major banks and mortgage companies agreed Monday to pay $8.5 billion to settle federal complaints that they wrongfully foreclosed on homeowners who should have been allowed to stay in their homes.

The banks, which include JPMorgan Chase, Bank of America and Wells Fargo, will pay billions to homeowners to end a review process of foreclosure files that was required under a 2011 enforcement action. The review was ordered because banks mishandled people’s paperwork and skipped required steps in the foreclosure process.

Under the new settlement, people who were wrongfully foreclosed on could receive from $1,000 up to $125,000. Failing to offer someone a loan modification would be considered a lighter offense; unfairly seizing and selling a person’s home would entitle that person to the biggest payment, according to guidelines released last summer by the Office of the Comptroller of the Currency. Monday’s settlement was announced jointly by the OCC and the Federal reserve.

The agreement covers up to 3.8 million people who were in foreclosure in 2009 and 2010. Of those, about 400,000 may be entitled to payments, advocates estimate.

About $3.3 billion would be direct payments to borrowers, regulators said. Another $5.2 billion would pay for other assistance including loan modifications.

The companies involved in the settlement also include: Citigroup, MetLife Bank, PNC Financial Services, Sovereign, SunTrust, U.S. Bank and Aurora. The 2011 action also included GMAC Mortgage, HSBC Finance Corp. and EMC Mortgage Corp.

The deal “represents a significant change in direction” from the original, 2011 agreements, Comptroller of the Currency Thomas Curry said in a statement.

Banks and consumer advocates had complained that the loan-by-loan reviews required under the 2011 order were time consuming and costly without reaching many homeowners. Banks were paying large sums to consultants who were reviewing the files. Some questioned the independence of those consultants, who often ruled against homeowners.

Curry said the new deal meets the original objectives “by ensuring that consumers are the ones who will benefit, and that they will benefit more quickly and in a more direct manner.”

“It has become clear that carrying the process through to its conclusion would divert money away from the impacted homeowners and also needlessly delay the dispensation of compensation to affected borrowers,” Curry said.

Some consumer advocates said that the agreement lets banks off the hook for payments that could have ended up being much higher.

“It’s another get out of jail free card for the banks,” said Diane Thompson, a lawyer with the National Consumer Law Center. “It caps their liability at a total number that’s less than they thought they were going to pay going in.”

Leaders of a House oversight panel asked regulators for a briefing on the proposed settlement on Friday. Regulators agreed to brief committee staff after the settlement was announced on Monday.

– By DANIEL WAGNER

 

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