11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day is coming and at Coldwell Banker we definitely believe in breakfast in bed.

Whether you love or despise Valentine’s day truth is breakfast is “the most important” meal of the day, so why not make breakfast on February 14th  special for a loved one in your life. Here are 11 super sweet ideas:

Cocoa Kissed Red Velvet Pancakes 

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Egg in the Basket 

eggsinabasket 300x280 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

Chocolate Chip Scones 

scones 300x198 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

Perfect Heart-Shaped Pancakes 

heartshapedpancakes 300x297 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

Healthy Whole Wheat Cranberry Applesauce Muffins 

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Red Velvet Crepes 

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Valentine Smoothie (Strawberry Banana) 

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Heart Cinnamon Rolls 

cinnamon 200x300 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

Heart Shaped French Toast

frenchtoast 290x300 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

Hot Chocolate with Marshmallow Hearts 

hot chocolate 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

…and finally what says I Love You more than Heart Shaped Bacon?!

bacon 200x300 11 Breakfast In Bed Ideas for Valentines Day

 

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

 

 

 

 

 

Should You Pay Your Mortgage With Plastic?

Fixed-rate mortgage loans are low, but is no-interest credit card debt better?

Q. I realize mortgage interest rates are at historic lows, but I just got a come-on for a new credit card with 0% interest for more than a year on transferred balances. Should I transfer all or part of the balance of my mortgage ($22,500) to one of these cards? The one I just got in the mail offers cash-back rewards.

–Chicago

A. In prior years, some banks would encourage homeowners to pay off mortgages with credit cards they issued to get rebates or other rewards, but they haven’t done this since the housing bubble burst. The 0% interest rates offered now are really teasers to try to get consumers to transfer their balances from competitor’s high-rate credit cards. Letting borrowers replace low-interest fixed mortgages—or even variable-rate home equity lines of credit—with higher interest, compounding credit card debt is too risky in our still-shaky economy. A borrower without the resources to pay off the balance in full each month could quickly wind up with a ballooning debt and no means to repay it. Eventually, the lender would be stuck with another foreclosure to maintain and sell.

That said, if you have the excellent credit and paid-off credit card balance necessary to qualify for a 0% rate, it is possible to transfer money from your card into your checking account, and then pay the mortgage out of those funds. Or you could use a third-party company that charges your mortgage payment to your credit card each month (thus preserving any rebates or rewards that are only given to new purchases) in exchange for a fee.

But I wouldn’t recommend these strategies unless you are disciplined about paying your bill in full each month. You also should have the means to pay off or refinance the loan completely before the 0% rate expires, even if you lost your job, had a health-care crisis or experienced some other financial emergency.

There are two upsides to paying with plastic: First, if you borrow enough to pay off the balance of your mortgage, all of the money goes towards principal. And second, by borrowing the money from your credit-card company to pay off your mortgage, you free up your savings for other potentially lucrative investments.

But there are also some serious potential pitfalls. Putting a large amount of money on your credit card can hurt your credit. Many credit card companies only give cash back and other incentives for new purchases, not transferred balances. Plus, there are often hefty fees for transferring balances or taking cash advances that cancel out any benefit you get for the 0% interest rate. Worse, if you skip a payment, the card issuer may have the right to raise the interest rates from zero to the double-digits. So it’s important to read the card’s fine print before you make a commitment.

The bottom line: Don’t take this “free” money unless you don’t really need it. Otherwise the risk—potentially losing your home—is not worth a few rebates and rewards.

—Email fletcher.june@gmail.com

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac Conforming Loan Limits For 2013

By  on February 5, 2013

 

The Federal Housing Finance Agency has announced that the conforming loan limit will remain at $417,000 for single family homes for 2013 for most areas of the U.S. The conforming limit is the maximum size mortgage that is eligible for purchase by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.  The maximum loan sizes for multi-unit properties are as follows:

  • 1-unit: $417,000
  • 2-unit: $533,850
  • 3-unit: $645,300
  • 4-unit: $801,950

In certain “high-cost” areas (e.g. Bergen County, NJ, Montgomery County, MD,  Nassau County, NY, etc.) where the median home price exceeds the standard conforming limit, the conforming loan limit is increased.  The loans are referred to variously as “high-balance,” “super-conforming,” and “high-balance jumbo” mortgages.  The conforming limit in high cost areas ranges up to $625,500 for 2013.  This is down from the previous high-balance limit of $729,750.  The maximum loan sizes for multi-unit homes in high balance areas are as follows:

  • 1-unit: $625,500
  • 2-unit: $800,775
  • 3-unit: $967,950
  • 4-unit: $1,202,925

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

10 Steps to Finding Your First Rental

Apt. for rent

When you’re looking for an apartment for the first time, it can be overwhelming. The best way not to panic is to break the process down into 10 sequential steps. The timeline will mostly depend on how long it will take you to save the upfront cash you’ll need, but after the money is in the bank, you should be in your own place in no time.

Determine your price range

There are two common ways to do this: You can divide your monthly take-home income by three. (For example, if you take home $1,800 a month after taxes, you could afford a place that costs up to $600 per month.) Or divide your annual gross income (before taxes and other deductions) by 40. (For example, if you made $40,000 a year, you could afford a place that cost up to $1,000 per month.) Either way gives you a rough idea of your maximum budget.

Start saving

Before long, you’ll need to put down a security deposit (usually equal to one month’s rent), plus the first month’s rent. And that doesn’t even include application fees and credit-check fees you may be charged. So start saving now, particularly because moving itself can cost anywhere from $200-$2,000, depending on the distance of the move and how much you do yourself.

Check your credit

Management companies will be checking your credit once you start applying. You don’t want to be caught flat-footed, so check if there are any blemishes on your report at the free Annual Credit Report website, which is sponsored by the federal government. If you have great credit, you have nothing to worry about. If your credit has blemishes, you may need to ask a friend, parent or relative if they would be willing to serve as your co-signer on a lease. In any case, be ready to explain your low score to potential landlords and what you are doing to fix it.

Settle on a neighborhood

Whether you’re moving crosstown or across the country, the best way to decide on a neighborhood is to visit. Also, ask friends who already live in the neighborhood what they think. Another thing to consider is affordability — we’d all love to live in SoHo, but most of us can’t afford it. In other words, be realistic. To determine the cost of a neighborhood, go online to see what an average 1- or 2-bedroom runs. A good rule of thumb is that at least a third of the listings in your neighborhood of choice should be within your budget. If it’s any fewer than that, you’re going to have limited options.

Start looking

Find listings online, but also remember to network among friends and colleagues, respond to “For Rent” signs you see in-person and cold-call management companies that have appealing buildings. If the rental market in your chosen city is really tight, you may need to use a broker. That will typically cost one month’s rent, so to move in you’ll need to have three months of rent in cash. Ouch! Also, be wary of red flags. If you know a particular landlord or management company is involved in poor practices, don’t even bother looking at their places.

Another word of advice: If something seems too good to be true, it probably is. When dealing with a potential landlord, the conversation should be respectful and straightforward. And remember to always Google the address of the building as a final precaution.

Put in an application

Once you find a great place, don’t get cold feet. If it’s within your budget, in a neighborhood you love and with a solid management company, then apply. If your credit score is good — or you have a co-signer lined up — you’re likely to get it!

Sign the lease

Your lease is a contract, so make sure you understand it. Often, if you have issues with certain points on the lease, you can alter or discuss them with the management company before signing. So read the lease carefully. A few things to look out for: the penalty for breaking the lease early, the policy for fixing issues with the apartment, how much notice you must give if you want to renew and the rules for getting your security deposit back.

Transfer/set up your utilities

Call the utility companies at least a week in advance, so you have a buffer in case you need to schedule an appointment. Other things to think about: You should get renter’s insurance before you move in, and you should also change your address with the USPS. Depending on where you’re moving, you may also need to register for parking stickers, change your driver’s license (if you’re changing states) and get a local library card.

Conduct a walk-through

During the walk-through, you need to document any pre-existing problems you find with the apartment, so that you’re not held liable. This means testing everything from the burners on the stove to the quality of the carpet to the functioning of the refrigerator. If anything’s off, document it. If the landlord needs to fix something, get it in writing. This is the best way to protect yourself, your future home and your security deposit.

Make the move

If you’re moving long distance, schedule movers several weeks in advance (prime dates book up quickly). If you’re finally moving out from your parent’s basement, they’ll probably help you pack up the station wagon and drive you! In any case, start packing early: It takes longer than you think, and if you’re not totally packed when the movers arrive, you’re courting disaster. Also, label your boxes and make sure you have staples such as toilet paper, light bulbs and cleaning supplies at the ready. You’ll need them right away when you move in.

This may all seem like a lot, but if you break it down step by step, finding and moving to a new apartment becomes very manageable. And nothing beats that great feeling you’ll have when you first walk into own apartment.

Find Rentals on The Peral Group

What is Debt-To-Income Ratio?

What is DTI Ratio?

By  on January 23, 2013

Debt-to-income ratio (DTI) is one of the key factors mortgage lenders use to determine whether or not a potential borrower can afford a mortgage. The debt-to-income ratio is calculated by dividing total monthly debt payments by total monthly income. Monthly debt payments generally include expenses such as mortgage payments, auto payments, student loan payments, credit card payments, and child support payments. Monthly expenses such as utilities, auto insurance and phone services are not included towards the monthly debt calculation. Monthly gross income generally includes the borrower’s monthly income, his/her spouse’s monthly income, any savings income, and any business or side incomes.

To learn how to calculate DTI, let’s consider the following example:

Monthly Mortgage Payment: $1200
Monthly Auto Payment: $500
Credit card payment (minimum): $300
Total Monthly Debt Payment = $(1500+500+500) = $2000

Suppose the monthly incomes are as below:

Borrower’s Monthly Salary: $3500
Spouse’s Monthly Salary: $2500
Other Income: $500
Total Monthly Income= $(6000+2500+500) = $6500

Debt-to-Income Ratio = Total Monthly Debt Payment/Total Monthly Income = (2000/6500) = 30.76%

When underwriting a mortgage, a lender will typically consider two kinds of debt-to-income ratios. First is the front ratio, which includes all housing costs (i.e. mortgage principal, interest, mortgage insurance premiums, and property taxes). The second is the back ratio, which includes non-mortgage debt such as credit card payments, auto loan payments, child support payments, and student loan payments.

As a general rule of thumb:

  • Front ratio = Housing DTI: Total Monthly Housing Payment / Gross Monthly Income Before Taxes
  • Back ratio = Total DTI: Total Housing Payment + Other Debts / Gross Monthly Income Before Taxes

The maximum allowable DTI to qualify for a loan is going to depend upon your lender, your financial situation, and your loan program.  Underwriting standards may vary from lender to lender, so you will want to contact your lender of choice to find out how it calculates DTI for a given loan program.

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Improve salability of home riddled with permit issues

REThink Real Estate

BY TARA-NICHOLLE NELSON, THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=43156006" target="_blank">Kitchen remodel</a> image via Shutterstock.
Kitchen remodel image via Shutterstock.

Q: I’m having trouble selling my place because I added a second kitchen in what was the garage without permits. My bad, but I will have to take it out to get conventional lending. It’s a two-story house with one bedroom (with a walk-in closet), a living room and kitchen in the upstairs unit. The downstairs has a kitchen and dining area in the converted garage space, another room that can be used as a bedroom with closet space under the stairwell, and a three-quarter bath.

This is on one acre of horse property on a dirt road with a section of state land across the street. It was listed last summer and had four offers within a month, but because I didn’t have the permits for the second kitchen no lender will finance the place.

Here’s my question: Should I spend the money to install a real closet in the downstairs bedroom, or just leave it as it is? –Jan

A: It sounds like the big selling point of your place is its fundamentals, the land, the horse zoning and the location near the undeveloped/state land. But as you’ve been through this odyssey with trying to get this place sold, I can tell that you are in danger of getting off track and unfocused with respect to how you move forward. Here’s how I’d suggest you avoid that:

1. Solve for the real problem. Stay focused on solving for the real problem that stopped you from selling the place the first go-round. If you had four offers right off the bat when you listed it, I would say that adding a closet is really not going to increase your chances of selling the place this go-round. Stay strategic and devote your additional investment and preparation efforts to what really matters: rendering the place mortgage-worthy and salable by either removing the second kitchen or obtaining permits for it.

That said, if you happen to know that the downstairs kitchen was a big selling point for the buyers who made offers before and you decide to remove it before relisting the place, then I’d say you can put the closet conversation back on the table. It might, in fact, limit how some buyers might like to use that living space, but I’d first talk with your agent and get her sense for whether the earlier buyer feedback suggests that a closet would be greatly valuable in that room to the average buyer for your property. I just doubt that a closet will be a major deal maker or breaker on a property that already had such a high level of buyer interest without the closet.

2. Don’t make the same mistake twice. To carve out an exception to my earlier advice, if installing a closet gets you an additional, legal bedroom, then you should consider doing it. That would allow you to list the home as a two-bedroom vs. a one-bedroom — and that does have major, incremental buyer-attracting value. But for that to happen, you’d have to apply for permits to turn the space into a bedroom with a closet. The fact that it is under a stairwell makes me suspect that it might not qualify for bedroom status, but talk that over with your agent and a local, licensed contractor.

And be aware that if you do apply for permits to turn the open space into a bedroom, you could be opening up a can of worms by inviting inspectors into the property who may begin to require other upgrades of the property to current building code standards. Given that you’ve heavily modified the home already without permits, this could be a train you’ll wish desperately you could put back in the station — and might not be worth the risk, even if you do think you could get an extra legal bedroom out of a closet addition.

3. Don’t assume removing the kitchen is the only solution. Allow me to add one more layer of complexity to this decision tree you face. Is it possible that you can get permits for the downstairs kitchen? Talk with your agent. If she feels like the property will get just as much buyer interest and just as many offers if you just pull the kitchen out, because of the nature of the place, then I’d say you should do that.

But if the downstairs “unit” was a primary reason buyers were interested last time, talk with your agent and contractor about whether it’s possible to cost-effectively get the kitchen permitted. If so, consider going that route, but do keep in mind the reality that applying for permits on the kitchen might expose you to additional inspector demands, like upgrades to electrical and other systems. So make sure you have a trusted, legitimate contractor on board who can tell you in advance what such demands would likely be.

Tara-Nicholle Nelson is a real estate broker, attorney and the author of two critically acclaimed books on real estate. Tara also speaks and writes on the art and science of life transformation at RETHINK7.com.

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Common surprises in real estate negotiation

When contingencies are involved, expect the unexpected

BY DIAN HYMER, MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=22697938" target="_blank">Underwater minefield</a> image via Shutterstock.Purchase offers usually aren’t accepted as written. Commonly, buyers and sellers engage in the equivalent of a tennis match, counter offering back and forth until they meet a mutually agreeable purchase contract. At this point, you might be inclined to think the negotiation phase of the transaction is over.

That may have been the case decades ago. But the home sale process has become more complicated over the years. Today, it might be more appropriate to say that the negotiations are over when the transaction closes. That is, if there aren’t any after-closing issues, like a leaky roof that wasn’t disclosed that could require more negotiation.

After a purchase contract is signed — including all the addenda and counteroffers — it is said to be ratified. A ratified contract is binding on both parties and usually can’t be unilaterally changed by one party without agreement from the other party. Any modification to a ratified purchase contract needs to be in writing. Verbal agreements to sell real estate are not binding.

Most purchase contracts include contingencies that provide buyers a time period to comply with certain parts of the transaction. The most common contingencies are for inspections and investigations, loan approval, appraisal of the property, and the sale of another property.

Usually, if the buyers use their best efforts to satisfy these contingencies but are unable to do so, they can withdraw from the contract without penalty and have their good faith deposit returned to them.

You should fully understand any purchase offer you sign as well as the impact of the buyers removing or not removing contingencies before you sign the contract. Not all contingencies contain the same language.

For example, some inspection contingencies give the sellers the right to remedy a defect; others allow the buyers to withdraw from the contract for any reason at the end of the inspection contingency period. Any questions should be directed to a real estate attorney.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Even though the ratified contract is legally binding on both the buyer and seller, circumstances can change during the transaction that may result in renegotiation. The most common occurs when the buyers’ inspection contingency is due. If buyers’ inspections reveal new information about the property, the buyers may agree to remove the inspection contingency but only if the sellers repair defects or contribute financially to repairs.

This puts the contract in limbo and requires good faith negotiation to salvage the transaction. Otherwise, the buyers and sellers agree in writing to cancel the contract. The sellers put their home back on the market and the buyers look for another home to buy.

Not all buyers renegotiate the contract when the inspection contingency is due. If the sellers have provided presale inspection reports and thorough disclosures before the buyers made an offer, it’s less likely that the buyers will make further requests from the sellers.

Another trigger for further negotiations can occur when an appraisal ordered by the buyers’ lender values the property at a price that’s lower than the purchase contract price. The effect of this is that the buyers’ lender will lend less than it said it would before the appraisal was done.

The buyers could ask for another appraisal, withdraw from the contract or try to negotiate a solution with the sellers. This might mean that the buyers agree to put more cash down, or they could ask the sellers to lower the purchase price, or a combination of the two. The goal is to reach a price that will work with the lower loan amount.

Buyers who feel they overpaid for the property may be more inclined to request a reduction to the appraised value and hold firm at that price.

THE CLOSING: If the sellers won’t agree, the transaction will fail.

Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years’ experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author of “House Hunting: The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers” and “Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer’s Guide.”

 

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Eight ways to improve your home appraisal

  • By Lou Carlozo

WASHINGTON (Reuters) – When Kellie and Michael May decided to refinance their home in the New York suburbs, they wanted to take advantage of historically low interest rates. But before landing a new 30-year fixed-rate mortgage, they had to get through a home appraisal.

“It was a major stumbling block,” says Kellie May, who has owned the 4-bedroom, 3-bath colonial for seven years. Not that she and her husband were unprepared; they’d been through an appraisal for another refinance in 2010, so they knew to point out improvements they’d made to the 3,400 square foot home, and supply prices for other neighborhood properties that had sold recently.

But the appraisal came back roughly $70,000 less than the $1,230,000 the Mays were expecting, and too low to support their new loan.

They responded with a paperwork arsenal aimed at their lender, asserting that the appraisal had been based on faulty recent sales data. The loan squeaked through, after the bank crafted an exception for the Mays. It was able to do that because their loan was a jumbo loan, not subject to the more rigid underwriting standards they would have encountered if it were a conventional loan aimed at secondary buyers like Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac.

Low appraisals are becoming a bigger problem for many would-be buyers and refinancers as home values have started to stabilize and rise in some markets.

In Leesburg, Florida, for example, low appraisals have caused the cancellation of as many as 15 percent of home sales for local real estate broker Gus Grizzard.

“We are seeing higher price appreciation and are starting to run into appraisal problems,” said Charlie Young, chief executive officer of ERA Franchise Systems, a firm with a national network of real estate brokerage offices, including Grizzard’s. The National Association of Realtors reported on Tuesday that inventories of homes were low and the median price a home resale was, at $180,800 in December, up 11.5 percent in a year.

Appraisals are based on recent sales prices of comparable properties. And in rising price markets, those sales prices might not be high enough to support the newest deals. Young said there were many places in California reporting appraisal problems.

On Friday, the federal government issued new rules aimed at improving the appraisal process as it pertains to high-interest mortgages on rapidly appreciating homes.

But those rules don’t go into effect for a year, and don’t apply to most conventional loans. It pays to protect your own loan before the bank even thinks about sending that guy with the clipboard over to your house.

“The reality is that the appraiser is only there for 30 minutes at most,” says Brian Coester, chief executive of CoesterVMS, a nationwide appraisal management company based in Rockville, Maryland. “The best thing a homeowner can do to get the highest appraisal possible is make sure they have all the important features of the home readily available for the appraiser.”

Here are eight ways you can bolster your appraisal:

MAKE SURE APPRAISER KNOWS YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD

Is the appraiser from within a 10-mile radius of your property? “This is one of the first questions you should ask the appraiser,” says Ben Salem, a real estate agent with Rodeo Realty in Beverly Hills, California.

He recalled a recent case where an appraiser visited an unfamiliar property in nearby Orange County and produced an appraisal that Salem said was $150,000 off. “If the appraiser doesn’t know the area intimately, chances are the appraisal will not come back close to what a property is really worth.”

You can request that your lender send a local appraiser; if that still doesn’t happen, supply as much information as you can about the quality of your neighborhood.

PROVIDE YOUR OWN COMPARABLES

Provide your appraiser with at least three solid and well-priced comparable properties. You will save her some work, and insure that she is getting price information from homes that really are similar to yours.

Websites including Realtor.com, Zillow and Trulia offer recent sales prices and details such as the number of bedrooms and bathrooms in a home.

KNOW WHAT ADDS THE MOST VALUE

If you’re going to do minor renovations, start with your kitchen and bathrooms, says G. Stacy Sirmans, a professor of real estate at Florida State University. He reviewed 150 variables that affect home values for a study sponsored by the National Association of Realtors. Wood floors, landscaping and an enclosed garage can also drive up appraisals.

DOCUMENT YOUR FIX-UPS

If you’ve put money into the house, prove it, says Salem.

“Before-and-after photos, along with a well-defined spreadsheet of what was spent on each renovation, should persuade an appraiser to turn in a number that far exceeds what he or she first called out.”

Don’t forget to highlight all-important structural improvements to electrical systems, heating and cooling systems – which are harder to see, but can dramatically boost an appraisal. Show receipts.

TALK UP YOUR TOWN

If your town has recently seen exciting developments, such as upscale restaurants, museums, parks or other amenities, make sure your appraiser knows about them, says Craig Silverman, principal and chief appraiser at Silverman & Co. in Newtown, Pennsylvania.

DISTINGUISH BETWEEN UPSTAIRS AND DOWNSTAIRS

Many homeowners covet that refinished basement, but that doesn’t mean appraisers look at it the same way. “Improvements and additions made below grade, such as a finished basement, do not add to the overall square footage of your house,” says John Walsh, president of Total Mortgage Services in New York. “So they don’t add anywhere near as much value as improvements made above grade.”

According to Remodeling magazine, a basement renovation that cost $63,000 in 2011-12 will recoup roughly 66 percent of that in added home value. That’s not as good as an attic bedroom, which will recoup 73 percent of its cost. Even similar bedrooms typically count for more if they are upstairs instead of downstairs.

CLEAN UP

Even jaded appraisers can be swayed by a good looking yard. “Tree trimming, cleaning up, a few flowers in the flower beds and paint touch up can all help the appraisal,” says Agnes Huff, a real estate investor based in Los Angeles.

That advice holds true indoors, too. “Get rid of all the clutter in your home,” says Jonathan Miller, a longtime appraiser in New York. “It makes the home appear larger.”

GIVE THE APPRAISER SOME SPACE

Don’t follow the appraiser around like a puppy. “I can’t tell you how many homeowners or listing agents follow me around in my personal space during the inspection,” he says. “It’s a major red flag there is a problem with the home.”

And while you’re at it, make the appraiser’s job as pleasant as possible by giving your home a pleasant smell. At a minimum, clean out the litter box. Baking some fresh cookies and offering him one or two probably won’t sway your appraisal, nor should it. But it couldn’t hurt.

(The writer is a Reuters contributor. The opinions expressed are his own.)

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

4 reasons your home isn’t selling

Even in recovering markets, listings must be priced right and properly marketed

BY DIAN HYMER, MONDAY, JANUARY 21, 2013.

Inman News®

<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=32385181" target="_blank">Price reduced</a> image via Shutterstock.
Price reduced image via Shutterstock.

There’s a buzz in the air. The real estate market has improved and may be on the road to recovery.

But the improvement in the housing market is not treating all home sellers equally. Some well-priced listings in prime locations are selling within a couple of weeks. In other areas, it still takes months to sell, and prices haven’t fully stabilized.

There are several factors that could be keeping your home from selling. One is the state of the local housing market. Residential real estate is a local business. National trends, while informative, don’t necessarily apply to the state of the market in your neighborhood.

Other factors include: the list price; the condition of your property; or lack of broad marketing exposure.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Today’s buyers don’t overpay. They need to be convinced that the price you’re asking for your home is a fair market value.

The housing market is pulling out of the worst recession since the Great Depression. This is fresh in buyers’ minds. There are plenty of buyers who think this is the right time to buy, but they’re not inclined to make offers on overpriced listings.

Sellers often wonder why buyers won’t make an offer at a lower price if they think the list price is high. Buyers don’t want to waste their time making an offer if the seller is unrealistic. Making an offer takes a lot of time and emotional energy. Most buyers who have the wherewithal to buy a home don’t have time to waste.

There are “bottom feeders” who give sellers lowball offers below market value hoping to get lucky. These buyers also won’t pay over the asking price. They want a bargain. You can do better than that if you price your home right for the market.

Here are clues that your listing might be priced too high. You don’t receive any showings, or you receive showings but no repeat showings. Buyers usually look at a listing more than once before making an offer. Another possibility is that buyers look at your home and then buy another listing that is priced more in line with the market.

Let your real estate agent know that you want to hear feedback from buyers who have seen your home. If they like the house but not at the price you’re asking, that’s a clear indication that you should adjust the price if you want to sell.

Some sellers have false expectations about the current picked-up market. In some areas, the improved market means that homes are taking less time to sell, not that prices have increased.

In other markets, like Phoenix, prices have jumped approximately 25 percent from a year ago but are still way below where they were at the peak of the market. If prices dropped 50 percent in your area, they need to increase 100 percent to get back to where they were before the decline.

For instance, if your home was worth $100,000 in 2006 and dropped 50 percent in value and then increased 50 percent of the lower value, it would be worth $75,000. It needs to increase 100 percent ($50,000 plus $50,000) to recoup your loss.

The condition of your home will influence the market value. You need to lower the price to account for deferred maintenance or a dated decor, or take care of these issues so that you can present your home in move-in condition. You’ll then attract more buyers and sell for more.

It’s always possible that your home has not been properly marketed. Ask your listing agent to provide you with copies of all advertising. More than 88 percent of today’s homebuyers use the Internet to find a home.

THE CLOSING: Make sure your listing is receiving wide Internet exposure, including a lot of good-quality photographs.

Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years’ experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author of “House Hunting: The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers” and “Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer’s Guide.”

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent

Fed missed the housing bust

By

JILL SCHLESINGER /

MONEYWATCH/ January 20, 2013, 5:52 PM

CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES

(MoneyWatch) Who would want a detailed, public record of our business decisions? Unfortunately, if you are an esteemed Fed governor, you must confront your exact words from meetings that occurred 5 years ago. The central bank released 1,566 pages of transcripts from each of the Fed’s eight monetary policy meetings in 2007, which is customary. What is not customary, of course, is that 2007 was the year that one would have hoped that our most esteemed bankers would have gotten the drift that there was something rotten in the nation’s housing market.

Clearly Chairman Ben Bernanke would like to take back this January 2007 comment: “The housing market has looked a bit more solid, and the worst outcomes have been made less likely.” Or his June remarks, which may have been a “bit” of an understatement: “A bit of cooling in the financial markets might not be an entirely bad thing.” Bernanke is not alone in his misjudgment of the economic and financial industry landscape. Outgoing Treasury Secretary Tim Geithner, who in 2007 was the NY Fed president, said “Direct exposure of the counterparties to Bear Stearns is very, very small compared with other things.” Oops!

 

There was one Fed governor who nailed the situation. Janet Yellen, who at the time served as the San Francisco Fed president, expressed the danger that loomed in June 2007: “I still feel the presence of a 600-pound gorilla in the room, and that is the housing sector. The risk for further significant deterioration in the housing market, with house prices falling and mortgage delinquencies rising further, causes me appreciable angst.”

 

Yellen’s prescience is reminiscent of Brooksley Born, the late 1990s chairman of the Commodity Futures Trading Commission, who was the only regulator who saw the danger of over-the-counter derivatives, the vehicles that a decade later would contribute to the financial crisis. The big difference in 2007 was that Yellen was not the lone voice and she was not bullied by her colleagues.

 

Still, Yellen could not rally the other central bankers to her cause. In September 2007, she reiterated her concerns: “A big worry is that a significant drop in house prices might occur in the context of job losses, and this could lead to a vicious spiral of foreclosures, further weakness in housing markets, and further reductions in consumer spending. … at this point I am concerned that the potential effects of the developing credit crunch could be substantial.” Yellen is currently the Vice Chair of the Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System and if she was seen as a potential successor to Ben Bernanke prior to this release, these comments beef up her chances in a big way.

 

Eventually, the Fed did recognize the magnitude of the problem, but as is often the case, the governors were late in their diagnosis and remedies. That’s why so many economists are worried about the central bank’s ability to withdraw its easy monetary policy when the U.S. economy improves. With the current low level of inflation (running below the Fed’s target of 2 percent on a year-over-year basis) and the high level of unemployment, the Fed will keep buying bonds and pushing money into the system until further notice. But will the Fed be able to predict when its time to stop?

 

Right now, economic growth is stuck in a low gear of about 2 percent annually, but when it reaccelerates, perhaps due to an uptick in global growth or a housing sector that perks up, the Fed could once again be behind the curve. When that happens, inflation will re-emerge; bonds will finally see the much-predicted sell-off; and the Fed will likely cringe when future transcripts are released.

 

This week, evidence of housing’s recovery will continue to trickle in. There’s little doubt that 2012 was the year that housing bottomed nationally. Prices were up about 6 percent; existing and new home sales rose by about 15 percent each; and housing starts increased 28.1 percent.

 

While this is good news, the housing crash created quite a hole. Prices are still down about 30 percent from the peak and even with the big jump in starts, 2012 ranks as the fourth lowest year since the Census Bureau started tracking starts in 1959 (the three lowest years were 2009 through 2011).

 

Meanwhile, the third straight week of gains brought two of the three U.S. stock indexes to their highest levels since December 2007. As the nation prepares for Inauguration Day, here’s a tidbit: President Obama’s first term was good for investors, with stocks up over 70 percent.

 

– DJIA: 13,649 up 1.2 percent on week, up 4.1 percent on year (4 percent below all-time high of 14,164, reached in 10/07)

– S&P 500: 1,485, up 1 percent on week, up 4.2 percent on year (5 percent below all-time high of 1,565, reached in 10/07)

– NASDAQ: 3,134, up 0.3 percent on week, up 3.8 percent on year (still a whopping 38 percent below all-time high of 5,048, reached in 03/00)

– February Crude Oil: $95.56, up 2.1 percent on week

– February Gold: $1,687, up 1.6 percent on week

– AAA nat’l average price for gallon of regular gas: $3.31

Courtesy of your Arcadia Real Estate Agent